I have many climate stories. One that was particularly impactful has to do with an area of America to which I’ve always felt very connected. The area where Wyoming shares a border with Montana and Idaho is home to some of the most wonderful natural environments including Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks. My first experience of this place was when I was 13 years old. On vacation, my family took a camping trailer up along the Rocky Mountains all the way from Texas to Montana. Traveling through and camping in the Jackson Hole and Yellowstone made such an impression that several years later I had to return. After college I was in search for America and myself, and I thought I might find something in the National Parks, forests, and communities around Yellowstone. I did, and for many years this area was the center of my life. I was permanently changed by living and working there.
That first time coming into Jackson Hole my family drove west up the canyon of the Wind River and over Togwotee Pass. Arriving from this direction is particularly scenic because as you come down from the pass you can see a large part of Jackson Hole laid out in front of you with the dramatic silhouette of the Teton Range as a backdrop. Over the years, I have gone in and out of the area from several directions, through many different canyons and over many different passes, but the Togwotee Pass route has alway had a special feel for me. Besides it being the first time I came into the area, it was also my first experience seeing an alpine lake. We stopped at the top of the pass to have lunch at the Wind River Lake picnic area. The area was unbelievably scenic with the emerald lake surrounded by green confer forest and reflecting the towering peaks of the Wind River Range above it. Being young and foolish I actually went for a swim in the lake. That was insane because the lake was unbearably cold and there was still a snow field at one side. That visit left an indelible impression.
Spending those years in the Yellowstone Teton area made me an ardent environmentalist which affected a lot of what I’ve done since. I’ve gone back several times over the years and it always seemed to anchor me, but I hadn’t been back for about 25 years. So five years ago when I was on my way back to Texas from Mount Rainier I drove across to Montana to see relatives and so I could travel down through Yellowstone and into Jackson Hole. I specifically wanted to drive out over Togwotee Pass. Having spent time in the National Forests of New Mexico and Colorado, I was aware of the damage the Pine Bark Beetles were doing to the conifer forests but I was totally unprepared for what I saw at Wind River Lake. The lake was there and the mountains were still there but the trees around the lake were all dead. The image was overwhelming. As I crossed over the Pass and drove down the Wind River Canyon was lined with dead trees. I have been intellectually prepared for the effects of climate change but this was a gut punch. It was emotional. I knew it was pine bark beetles but we made it possible for them to do this. Now I have to spend the rest of my time recording the effects of our actions, trying to stop them, and heal the environment.
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